Every year I try to make my garden stand out. This year I wanted birds in my garden, to hear their trills every morning i wake up.
What better idea than a bird feeder? I started looking for ideas and in a few clicks time i found my project. If this is your first woodworking project, you need to really take the time to look for the easiest/nicest bird feeder you can make. Now back to my project …. after a few more clicks into gardening hacks, i found out another interesting fact!
DECIDING on which breed of turkey to buy can be difficult as there are more than people generally realize. The Norfolk Black, the oldest breed originating in the UK, should be coal black all over, with no hint of other color in the feathering.
The majority – if not all – have a bronze edging on the back feathers. This is inherited from the days when Bronze mating was introduced because of the shortage of Norfolk Black bloodlines. This cross breeding took place in America as well as the UK, and to this day if any Norfolk Black was found with no bronzing on whatsoever, it would earn its keep through that very fact alone.
Did you know there are more than 200 breeds of chickens? Why do you care? Besides color, plumage pattern, style of comb and wattles — somewhat cosmetic considerations — chicken breeds differ on everything from personality, to broodiness (tendency to sit on eggs to hatch them), to winter hardiness and even egg color!
Plus, some farmers raise them to show, or breed rare varieties to keep them going, or just because they like that particular breed.
Everybody learned to cluck by now? Most of you know that chickens don’t speak English, Spanish or Russian. So that means if you want to speak with your chickens, you’re going to have to learn to cluck. No joke. You can call your chickens with certain types of clucking sounds. And you can.
No different than calling your cats or your dogs. So, has everybody got over themselves and learned how to cluck? Good. If you really want to impress your friends, the next time you’re at a social event, just start clucking. And don’t worry, you didn’t ever want to go back there again anyway. And if you really want to impress your friends, put your hands under your arms, start flapping your imaginary wings, raise your knees as high as you can and start walking around the room clucking. Now wasn’t that fun?? Your grandkids will love it. Their parents may think something has happened. And when you get to be my age, who cares?
You’re ready for your new flock of hens: you have the coop, feeder and waterer and the chicks are on order. But what do you use for litter on the floor of the chicken coop? Pine shavings, hay, straw, or what? How often do you have to clean it out? And, for urban and suburban homesteaders especially, is it going to smell?
The deep litter method is one sustainable method of managing chicken litter in the chicken coop that many small farmers use. In the deep litter method, you’re basically forming a compost pile of your chicken’s poop right on the floor of the coop. Like a compost pile, you begin with a layer of pine shavings or other organic matter in the “browns” category. The high-nitrogen chicken poop is the “green.”
Ducks and geese are hardy and fairly easy to raise. Their brooding requirements are simple and they don’t need special housing or equipment, but they can be MESSY! No joke, they are as messy as they are adorable. Luckily, because of their rapid growth and early feathering, they do not require as long a brooding period. The easiest way to raise goslings is of course by a broody geese, or even a willing broody chicken (as can ducklings):
Raising goslings artificially can be an equally rewarding pastime, not least because baby waterfowl are surely some of the cutest creatures of the poultry world. This article breaks down their basic needs and help you prepare and care for for your goslings.
BROODERS AND HOUSING
If you are raising your goslings artificially, you will need a brooder to keep them in. Brooders need to be big enough to comfortably accommodate the goslings for a few weeks (depending on the weather) and have a heat source to keep them warm until they have enough feathers to help them regulate their body temperature.
Though many people prefer to brood goslings in their house, an outside brooder house, for example a partitioned off section in a barn or outbuilding, would be easier to manage (think: mess). For the brooder house a wood, concrete, or dirt floor is good. Allow about 1.5 square feet of floor space per gosling and cover the floor with about four inches of absorbent litter, for example wood shavings, ground corn cobs, cottonseed hulls, peanut hulls or peat moss. (**Do not brood goslings on newspaper as the slippery surface can cause foot and leg problems). For the first few days, I’d put some old towels in the brooder, followed by thick pine shavings.
Dampness tend to be more of a problem with ducklings and goslings than it is in brooding baby chicks, so regular removal of wet litter and frequent additions of clean, dry litter is recommended.
Goslings need to be kept warm enough for the first few weeks, until they have sufficient feathers to help maintain and regulate their body temperature. For the first week aim to have a warm area in the brooder, maintaining the temperature there at around 85*F. This temperature should be reduced about 5*F per week until 70*F is reached. Artificial heat is usually only required for first 5-6 weeks and in good weather, the young goslings can be taken out to pasture from a very young age.
The behavior of the young goslings will be an even better guide than a thermometer. When the brooder temperature is too high, you will notice the goslings crowd away from the heat source. Too high temperatures may result in a slower rate of feathering and growth, so if you see this kind of behaviour, adjust the heat source and temperature as needed.
When the temperature in the brooder is uncomfortably cold, goslings tend to huddle together under the brooder heat source or pile up in corners. Keeping a heat lamp on the goslings at night and during the day, when it’s chilly, will discourage this. When the brooder temperature is just right, the goslings will be comfortably distributed over the floor of the brooder house.
The best food for growing goslings is a formulated starter feed that will meet their nutritional requirements. UNmedicated chick starter can be fed, if waterfowl feed is not available, but take note that the feed you are using contains only those additives approved for ducks and geese and that you will need to supplement it with niacin as needed. (Brewers yeast added to the feed or water is a good safe source of niacin for growing goslings.)
Please note: Certain types of drugs that are sometimes included in chick starting and growing mashes for coccidiosis control can be harmful to goslings. They may cause lameness or even death.
Whether you buy a commercial feed, or mix your own home-made rations, make sure the feed you are using meets he minimum nutritional requirements for goslings, which are:
According to Storeys Guide to Raising Poultry insufficient or imbalance of calcium, vitamin D, or phosphorus can cause rickets. Symptoms are weak birds with stiff or swollen joints, soft beaks, and soft leg bones. Slipped tendon is a leg weakness usually caused by a deficiency of manganese. Choline, niacin, and biotin deficiency may also have a part in it. The shank and foot remain flexed and extend laterally from the body and there is flattening and enlargement of the hocks. Vitamin E deficiency causes staggering, incoordination and paralysis. Curled toe paralysis is caused by a deficiency of riboflavin. Vitamin A deficiency may cause pustules to develop in the mouth, esophagus and crop and cause death. The best and safest feed for growing goslings is a specially formulated waterfowl starter and raiser.
Goslings can be fed fresh grass clippings from when they are a few days old, in addition to their regular feed, not as a replacement. Make sure if you feed this, that you provide grit.
Make sure your goslings always have fresh, clean water available. They will make a huge mess of it, so be prepared for this! Geese need to be able to put their heads in water to clean their nares, so it’s always good to have water deep enough for them to do this, even tiny goslings. Don’t put deep bowls of water in the brooder that are big enough for the gosling to climb into, or attempt to climb into. Remember these are waterfowl. They love water and they love swimming. A plastic bowl with a lid, with a large enough hole cut in the lid that the goslings can get their heads into, will make a perfect waterer.
PASTURE FOR GOSLINGS
When the weather is mild enough, goslings can be let out and allowed to graze on pastures or lawns when they are only a few days old. Grass is the natural food of goslings and you can save a lot of money in feed by providing good pasture throughout the goslings’ growing period. At five or six weeks of age they can feed themselves entirely on good pasture, although some supplemental feeding is recommended until the birds are completely feathered.
If you are in a position to plant a pasture or area specially for grazing geese, Ladino clover makes fine pasture for goslings. Other types of white clovers also are very good, as are most varieties of grasses. In Missouri, bluegrass, orchardgrass, timothy and bromegrass can be use. Small grains such as barley, wheat and rye can make excellent early or fall pasture. Goslings or geese are not fond of sweet clover, lespedeza or alfalfa (lusern).
For large numbers allow about one acre of pasture for each 20 to 40 geese. The amount required varies on the size of the goslings and quality of pasture, but whenever possible, more is always better. When the pasture is poor quality, feeding supplemental grains will be necessary.
Keep goslings out of the rain and off wet grass for the first few weeks, especially when the weather is cool. If the weather is hot, make sure they have adequate shade.
Make sure that the pasture and green feeds you use do not have any chemical treatment that would be harmful to your flock.
Swimming can start during their first week, if brooded inside where temperature can be regulated. A good place to let them have their first swim is in the bath tub, or in a large enough pan, or tub. For the first week, fill it with enough nice warm water (not too hot!), just enough to reach the top of the goslings’ legs. After the first week, make the water deep enough to allow them to dive underwater. Let them play for about 5-10min to start with. Do not let them swim unattended! Stay with them until their play-time is up. After swimming, pat them dry and place them right back into brooder to finish drying. If they are brooded outside and by mothers are brooding some recommend waiting until the goslings are 3-4 weeks before setting up a pool that they can get in an out easily. It is very important they can get in and out of their swimming pools easily (place bricks inside the pool and out stacked or provide ramps). If they tire out and get cold they can die.
Chicken manure is chock full of nutrients that will benefit your garden .
This spangled hamburg is one of eight birds in my backyard flock. As a typical laying chicken, she lays between 250 and 300 eggs a year. Over that same period of time, this typical chicken — tiny though she seems — will produce roughly 90 pounds of manure. Multiply that by 8 birds and that’s a lot of poop. For some that doesn’t mean much more than the chore of mucking out the coop a few times a year. For the home gardener, however, that manure is worth its weight in…fertilizer. Chicken manure must be used carefully, but is among the most desirable organic fertilizers and will give your garden soil a spectacular boost without spending a dime.
Chicken manure is chock full of nutrients that will benefit your gardening plot. Topping the list is a healthy dose of nitrogen. While this is great news for a gardener dealing with nitrogen deficient soil, this also makes this manure very “hot.” Plants, especially young plants, that come into contact with fresh chicken manure will be “burned” by the nitrogen content and will quickly wither. Fortunately, there are several good methods for appropriately aging chicken manure for use as a fantastic natural fertilizer.
Chicken manure is a superstar for composting. It can be added to an existing compost bin, but does just fine combined with carbon-based matter such as fallen leaves or dry grass clipping and left in a pile or corralled in chicken wire bins. Left unattended, the compost will be ready for use as fertilizer in 6-12 months. Turned occasionally, waiting time is reduced to just 4-6 months.
Manure “Tea”Composting is one of the important function in the nature which replenishes the soil with essential elements to support life on earth. Composting is a simple but complicated process. People have aversion for composting just because of lack of understanding.
We make waste and throw it outside just because we are less imaginative, less creative and do not bother about others. In my previous video on landfill you can see the plight of a village which is being dumped with waste from a city. Dont we feel ashamed of it? Dont feel inhumane?
Let us do composting at home / work. It is simple, joyful and creative. It is a big step towards building a zero waste society. I made this video to encourage people who are living in cities and always complain about lack of space for doing something. We have to find space in our mind. Then it can work even in a pot! Unleash your creativity and enthusiasm to contribute to save our Planet!
Fill a burlap sack with manure and weigh it down with a couple of bricks or a large rock. Place the sack in a large plastic trash can and fill the can with water. This can be a little messy, but reduces your wait time to just 3-4 weeks and yields a nutrient-packed brine than can be used to treat garden soil or water individual plants.
We all know that a good dose of manure or compost is the perfect Rx for your garden and yard. We also know the local garden store charges a steep price for brewing manure and compost tea. Well, worry no longer, we’ll show you how to brew up your own Manure and Compost tea, quickly, easily and cheaply in a five gallon bucket with just a little cheese cloth.
If your garden plot will be left dormant in cooler months, fresh manure can be spread over the soil at a ratio of approximately 50 pounds per 100 square feet once the fall harvest is complete. Till the plot to turn the manure into the soil. The soil will be ready to be tilled again in the spring, already packed with nutrients provided by your own backyard flock. Allow 3-4 months for the soil to temper before planting.
The saying “What starts right, ends right” holds true when it comes to raising turkeys. The better start you give your poults, the better the chance of raising them with very few, if any, problems.
Before getting turkeys, make sure you know what type of turkey you want to get. You will need to decide if you want a turkey for food or if you want a turkey for a pet, to roam the yard, to breed and sell or even perhaps to eat in the future. BYC turkey lovers can help you decide what breed turkey you want. Regardless of your reasons for wanting turkeys, there are a few things that you will need to know about turkeys before your turkeys arrive at their new home. Here is a quick introduction guide on raising turkey poults with some tips from our members to help make it a pleasant, hassle free experience for you:
Before you get turkeys, you will want to contact your local Ag department to ask them about Blackhead and to see if Blackhead is popular in your area. The answer to that question will determine if you want to house your poults/turkeys with your chicks/chickens.
Buy your poults from a reliable source (an NPIP-certified hatchery), or a reputable breeder to guarantee good quality, healthy birds. A good place to start your search would be the Other Poultry – Birds & Hatching Eggs BST section.
YOUR POULTS AT HOME – BROODERS
Clean and disinfect brooders and housing facilities before getting your poults. Make sure you scrub and disinfect the walls, floor and all equipment used for your poults. Feeders and waterers can be soaked in a household bleach solution to kill germs. Also make sure you dry out the brooder/pen thoroughly before putting down bedding. Old towels or paper towels can be used as bedding for young poults. **Avoid using newspaper as the slippery surface can cause injuries and/or foot and leg problems.** After 3 weeks most farmers switch the bedding to wood shavings, or clean sand.
Brooder space is not a huge factor when raising turkeys, but with that being said, make sure you provide adequate floor space as well as access to feeders and waterers. Recommended space (average across species per bird) is:
Once the poults have arrived, it’s important they are kept warm. Turkey poults are very sensitive to cold. Check the brooder at least 24 hours before the poults arrive and adjust to 95 to 98 degrees F at two to three inches above the litter surface for the first two weeks. Decrease temperature ±5 degrees F each week after, until it reaches 70 degrees F, and maintain this temperature until extra heat is no longer needed (usually at around 6 to 8 weeks of age). Make sure the heat source is placed so the poults can decide where they are comfortable, i.e. have a warm space and a cooler space available in the brooder for them.
FEEDING AND WATERING YOUR POULTS
Turkey poults are particularly prone to “starving out,” which means that some poults will get pushed away from the feeder or hang back at feeding time and will actually starve to death despite food being available. Keep an eye on them for the first few days to make sure they all eat enough. When you first get your poults, dip their beaks in the water and food. This will help them find the food and water the first couple of days. As poults they are clumsy and can drown in their waterer, but adding pebbles or marbles to the water for the first week or two helps prevent this.
The best feed for turkey poults is fresh, clean turkey starter, or if none is available at your local feedstore, a game bird starter. A well stocked feedstore will offer a choice between medicated and non-medicated starter. Poults do well on either and choosing a starter us up to personal choice. Poults will do best on a starter with minimum 28% protein for the first few weeks. There are different opinions and feeding methods regarding protein levels in feed and when to reduce the levels. Here is one guide for raising and “fattening” turkeys from hatched to market, or slaughter age:
Make sure the poults have adequate, fresh, clean water available at all times. *Newborns get chilled easily and should due given water at room temperature.* Molasses is a great thing to have in a young poult or chick water for the first week of their life. Not only is a natural laxative for them to help prevent pasty butt, but it also has sugar for energy and is high in calories. It helps get the poults off to a good start. Some poultry keepers recommend adding a vitamin supplement to their drink water for the first week as well, but this is optional.
If you ARE seeing that your poults are eating and still dieing, you may want to look at problems with temps, surroundings (bedding, chemicals/poison present) and possible diseases. You may also want to check the expiration date on your feed to make sure that the feed is not expired, spoiled or molded. Check the bottom and/or middle of your feed bag and see if your brown crumbles have a greenish/grey color tint to it. If so, the feed is molded and has probably already killed your poults or will kill your poults. If this is the case, you need to IMMEDIATELY remove any feed from their feeders. Clean out their brooder and make sure that no feed has remained on the brooder floor. Contact the place where you purchased the feed to let them know and to request a refund. You will have to replace your feed. If your poults have been ingested molded feed you will need to get this mixture ready and available for them to drink (1/4 cup of molasses with 1 gallon of water). This should help the molded feed problem. You may also want to try activated charcoal. This can be found at a health food store. They sell it in gelatin capsules. You will need to make about 1/2 cup of mash which would be oatmeal or cream of wheat. You must open 4 activated charcoal capsules and mix into the feed. If your poults are too weak to eat, you will need to feed them VERY SLOWLY with a syringe or eyedropper, so that they do not choke.
As a new poult owner, you may want to feed “treats” to your poults. Most people want to give their turkeys worms from the yard. I caution you about feeding worms (earthworms) to poults. Worms carry parasites which in turn can kill your poults. If you want to feed treats, you may try feeding them fresh fruits and veggies cut up into small pieces. You may also try giving them a boiled egg and yogurt.
If you feed worms to your poults, you may be posting the next day asking for help because you have a sick poult or your poults or dying. Take my advice and do not let them get a hold to an earthworm . This is coming from an experienced bird owner who had a pea fowl that was 3 months old and died. Necropsy from LSU Vet Medical School indicated that my pea DIED from ingesting an earthworm that was infected with parasites. BEWARE – A lesson learned
Turkeys can take up to 3 months to fully develop their immune systems, so it is therefor best to avoid introducing clumps of grass, or soil from outside to the brooder while the poults are young.
By the time your turkey poults are 8-10 weeks old you can get ready to move them outside. You will now have to determine what you are going to house them in. You will also need to decide if you want to clip their wings or not. Clipped wings will keep them from flying over your fence, but the same time, they will not be able to fly away from any predators… Most turkeys are great flyers and can easily clear a 5 foot fence.
If you have predators in your area a secure coop is recommended for housing your turkey flock.
Being around them (poults), allows you to get closer when and catch them when it’s time to butcher. But you can get attacked to them it you spend to much time with them. For the first timer raising Great White or Big Breasted Bronze can be difficult because the first 7 to 10 weeks is critical. They will also have the highest loss rate of any other breed.
Although for heritage type turkeys it recommended to butcher at 30 weeks of age. You can butcher sooner or later depending on how big you want the birds.When you do decide to pick a breed to raise you need to consider how big of a turkey you want at butcher time. If you want a 26 to 45 pound turkey then a Great white or BB bronze is what you want. But in our case we have never purchased a turkey larger then 18 pounds from the store. So when we decided to raise some Great Whites and BB bronze it was not the smart of a decition on our part. Since they don’t fit whole in our smoker and and they barely fit into our largest baking pans. They take up to three times the space to store in the freezer whole.A midget White will make a nice 8 to 12 pound turkey the does not take up a lot of space in the freezer. Where a Great White or BB bronze that was butcher at 22 weeks came in around 26 pounds and takes up a whole shelf in an upright freezer.How you will cook the turkey? slow cooking methods like baking, broiling, smoking fat helps a lot with the taste and texture of the bird. So for these methods you look for a bred that will be the correct size at around the recommended time for butcher.
If you plan to fry a turkey, then you can butcher early and use one of the larger breeds. Because more fat means a greaser bird when frying. Larger bird means more meat, but larger chest cavity so to big and it won’t fit the fryer or casue the oil to over flow.
Generally speaking you will be getting a straight run from the hatchery so you won’t be able to pick and choose between a smaller female or larger male. Also since Heritage breeds are no longer bred for consistancy the finished size will very some what. So don’t be suprised when you butcher there is several pounds difference in the same breed. Also be aware that if you order from a Hatchery they have a minum number you can purchase is usually around 15 or so.Have your housing ready before ahead of time. We started off with 2 105 qt plastic containers for 16 Turkeys, that lasted about a week. We moved them to some larger brooders we streached that to about another 4 weeks, but that was to long. Then we had to move them to some larger indoor pens, because I didn’t have anything ready outside.
You must be careful not to get to attached to them, because it can be really easy. Since it a small flock it not like you are raising the on a commercial bases where you have hunderds of birds. So it’s really easy to get attached to them, which makes butchering a lot harder to do. since we are down to our last 6 all of ours now have nick names, and two of them I can tell we are getting attached to. We can agonizing if we will keep these to over the winter as a breeding pair or not.
Even him, whose coming is after the working of Satan with all power and signs and lying wonders, 2 Thessalonians 2:9
2015 – 1776 = 239 or 23/9 (23/9 European date format 9/23 US date format)
Pope arrives in the USA 923 days (9/23) after he was elected..
266th Pope Meet Barack Obama at the White House 266th date of year 266 days for Human conception……….. “While people are saying, “Peace and safety,” destruction will come on them suddenly, as labor pains on a pregnant woman, and they will not escape.” 1 Thessalonians 5:3
23rd September 2015 is 132 (33+33+33+33) weeks after Pope Francis election on 13th March 13. Add 1+3+0+3+2+0+1+3 = 13
This year it is the 239th (23/9) year of independence in USA (1776)
Total number of victims on board MH370 was 239 …23/9
2015 Philadelphia train derailment occured at 9:23 PM.
239 is the atomic mass number of the most common isotope of plutonium, Pu-239. Plutonium-239 is the primary fissile isotope used for the production of nuclear weapons
Mozart’s K239 was composed in 1776. It was the only ever piece he wrote for 2 orchestras.
Astrologically, September 23rd is when the sun god traverses into Libra – “weighed” on the “scales” – the ancient symbol of Judgment.
A complete Maya Long Count cycle is 5,125 years long and the number of days between 9/11/01 and 9/23/15 is 5125 days.
239 is the atomic mass number of the most common isotope of plutonium, Pu-239. Plutonium-239 is the primary fissile isotope used for the production of nuclear weapons
The Pope will meet the Antichrist (the 2 ‘orchestras’ and 2 heads of the Beast) before arriving in Philadelphia.
“The Pope and Obama are the 2 heads of The Beast. If this does not ring any bells, so be it). My assertion is that the Pope will usher in world order ( ORDO AB CHAO) order out of complete chaos. I also believe that this could signal the birth of the forthcoming electronic currency. – after all the devastation that comes to a head in September. In Biblical terms I believe it mark the start of the time of Tribulation – highlighted by the final Tetrad, which will be on September 28th. This is also recognised in the Jubilee which ALSO begins on these dates” From GLP.
It just struck me to look into the timing of the 9/11 attacks, remembering that they happened around “9” in the morning. Here is what I found:
“9:23: Flight 93 receives a computer text message from United Airlines flight dispatcher Ed Ballinger: “Beware any cockpit intrusion—Two a/c [aircraft] hit World Trade Center.” The message is received at 9:24 by the aircraft computer.”
“Two a/c hit..”. AC is used sometimes for an abbreviation of the term “antichrist.”
The timing of the event was taken from the 9/11 official commission report:
Barack Hussein Obama’s combined English Gematria in 4 charts is also 1998 or 666+666+666
You heard of the “27 Forever Club” ?….Well that is where it all this comes from.
The Following taken from GLP.
On page 7 of this thread I received confirmation that on September 23rd, 2015 Satan is going to get his full, unrestrained reign over the whole world that’s spoken of in the Book of Revelation!
THINGS HAVE BEEN ACCELLERATING, BUT YOU AIN’T SEEN NOTHIN’ YET, PEOPLE! TIME IS SHORT! GET RIGHT WITH GOD. Jesus is the only way anyone is going to get through what’s coming on the whole earth.
For decades, movies, television, music, and even some politicians, have cryptically been hinting at the dates on or around September 23, 2015.
Part of the irony of these references is that this year, September 23, 2015 is the Jewish Day of Atonement. Moreover, the blood moon tetrad has been happening on all the Jewish feasts the last 3 moons, and will fall again on 9/28/15.
The implication is that it is possible God’s wrath will be poured out on the entire earth, starting on the 23rd of September by allowing Satan to have full, unrestrained rule upon the eart (see Revelation 12:12 below) upon those who have not received Jesus as the atonement for their sins. In essence, those who reject Jesus will have to pay the atonement fee themselves, and that means wrath.
Unlike the well-known 9/11 date disclosed on the ID of Neo in The Matrix, this September 23rd references date back decades, and we seemingly keep finding more.
The videos I am going to post below are just the beginning, but I am betting there are even more if more people begin watching for them in media all around us. In fact, there was a reference in this week’s Big Bang Theory episode.
RELATED VIDEO: Our Own Government And Secret Church Leaders Are Engaged In A Massive Cover-Up…
Why is this happening? I believe that September 23rd may be the date that fulfills Revelation 12 regarding Satan being “cast down” to the earth (hence the asteroid symbolism) and given a measure of reign over the earth that he’s never had before:
Revelation 12:12 12 Therefore, rejoice, O heavens and you who dwell in them! But woe to you, O earth and sea, for the devil has come down to you in great wrath, because he knows that his time is short!”
This means hell on earth as the beginning of judgment.
God, too, is clearly warning from Heaven. If you see check the video in my signature, you will see that God is warning this world that the Day of the LORD is coming quickly. Will it be September 24, 2015? I cannot say for sure. It may be the beginning of the tribulation period, starting with Satans full, unrestrained reign on earth, and then change into the full wrath of God within 3 1/2 years which would be the mid-tribulation period. God is patient, and He wishes all to get right with Him before He brings down His wrath in full force.
When the Day of the LORD comes, it will be terrible for all of humanity. A day of vengeance, darkness, and destruction. Take note of how to repent in my signature, it will help you get right with God through what Jesus did on the cross for all of us. And may God remember mercy in His wrath…
Here are the imbedded videos (I will post direct links below them in case imbedding ever fails):
Little Shop of Horrors Movie (1986) points to September 23 as start of Great Tribulation!
1996 TV show 3rd rock from the sun 2015 Meteor strike predictive programming?
Gorillaz 19-2000 music video points to Sept 23/10 Days of Awe/Alien Deception & Meteorites
Sleepy Hollow – Don’t be afraid of #49 (Year of Jubilee)
Pixels Movie shows September 23rd as start of “alien invasion” and meteorite strike
An asteroid or meteor will hit the earth on September 24, 2015 – you have been warned!!!
Here is a Biblical reference to September 24th being the start of the Day of the LORD, and the presumption of a pretribulation rapture, in the Book of Haggai.
Does the Scripture tell us the date of the Sudden Destruction?
Isaac Newton’s September 23, 2015 prophecy; September 24, 2015- “100% PROBABILITY” of Asteroid
WOW! New movie about judgment day called JeruZalem opening on September 23, 2015.
“And I saw one of his heads as it were wounded to death; and his deadly wound was healed: and all the world wondered after the beast” Revelation 13:3
Posted on August 17, 2015 by Garden Prepper August 17, 2015
Your backyard chickens need to eat a balanced, nutrient-rich diet so they can experience optimal growth, weight gain, egg production and immunity from various poultry diseases.
In the old days, people had to formulate their own poultry feed by mixing various grains, such as corn and wheat. Today, it’s thankfully much easier; most feed stores offer pre-formulated chicken feed rations that give your backyard birds the the exact balance of protein, minerals, vitamins and other nutrients.
Educate yourself on the specific nutritional needs of your chickens so you can pick out the best stuff while shopping for feed. In this online guide, you’ll learn exactly what your hungry hens are craving!
Feeding Schedules and Types of Feed
Just like you needed different food when you were a baby, a chicken has different nutrient needs at the different stages of her life. Nutritional needs also vary depending on the purpose of the chicken (i.e., layer hens need different chicken feed from meat birds).
If you’re raising layer hens: From when your chicks hatch until six weeks of age, feed your chicks a starter feed that has a protein level of 20-22 percent. Once the chicks hit six weeks of age, feed them pullet grower (14 to 16 percent protein) until age 20 weeks. After that, switch your hens to layer feed with a protein level of 15 to 18 percent. (MONEY-SAVING SECRET: Layer feed is often expensive. Save yourself some money by substituting 1/2 lb. of grain, such as barley or corn, for 1/2 lb. of poultry ration every day.)
If you’re raising meat birds: Provide broiler starter with a protein level of 20 to 24 percent from the point of hatching to six weeks of age. After that, switch your meat chickens to broiler finisher (16 to 20 percent protein) until the birds are sent to be slaughtered.
Feeding Amounts (Fat Hens Aren’t Happy Hens!)
The amount of food your chicken eats will go up or down depending on your chicken’s age and your method of feeding him. Some backyard chicken hobbyists leave the chicken feed out all day in a sort of buffet-style setup so that their hens can eat whenever they whimsy strikes. Other hobbyists dole out the feed in measured proportions two or three times daily.
Avoid the temptation to feed your hens too much. It can be costly, to both your budget and your chickens’ health! The University of California-Davis recommends the following for feeding layer hens:
Chick starter: 2 to 2.9 lbs. per chick for the first six weeks
Pullet grower: 12 to 13 lbs. per pullet for approximately 14 weeks
Layer feed: 1.8 to 2.4 lbs. per week per layer hen
For feeding meat chickens, the university notes that 10 chickens will eat 30 to 50 lbs. of broiler starter until six weeks of age, and 16 to 20 lbs. of broiler finish until slaughter.
The Importance of Fresh Water
Chickens aren’t camels! Just like the human body, the body of the chicken consists of mostly water. Thus, though water is not often considered a “food” or “nutrient,” it’s one of the most important things to consider when feeding your backyard chickens. Always ensure your chickens have access to fresh, clean and cool water at all times of the day, and clean your watering equipment regularly as dirty waterers can harbor diseases and attract pests. You can use simple trough-style waterers, floor-based waterers and/or hanging waterers, depending on how your chicken coop is set up
Certified Kitchen: Keep Things Sanitary
You don’t have to prep your chickens’ food in a certified kitchen, but the area in which you’re feeding your chickens must be kept clean. This reduces the risks of disease and rodent outbreaks among your flock. It’s far cheaper to take proactive cleaning measures than it is to try to eradicate a disease outbreak or the pests that are often attracted to dirty feed conditions (Chickens aren’t the only ones who find their feed tasty; rats and mice do, too!).
Clean your chickens’ watering troughs every day and replace the water with fresh water. Also, clean out the feed troughs and remove old feed, dirt and other contaminants every other day. If possible, remove the feeders from the coop, wash them and allow them to dry thoroughly before placing them back in your coop.